Donegal in 24 hours: Live music, fresh seafood & stunning views

Bordering the Atlantic Ocean, Co Donegal is famous for its majestic coastline, sandy beaches, and astounding peninsula. Not to mention its Gaeltachts, weaving mills, and gorgeous heritage towns.

When I was invited to the Rusty Mackerel in Carrick for 24 hours of off-grid living, I jumped at the chance to explore a small slice of the gorgeous county.

The trip promised a day of exploration across the stunning coastline, a visitor experience of handwoven Donegal Tweed, and a tour of Ardara's whiskey distillery* - all before enjoying a night of live music and fresh seafood, followed by a breathtaking sunrise hike.

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But first, bread. Homemade brown bread that practically melts in your mouth, topped with Kerrygold butter and dipped in creamy seafood chowder. This was our introduction to The Rusty Mackerel, a traditional Irish bar, restaurant, and accommodation sitting right at the foot of the second-highest sea cliffs in Ireland.

Between the welcoming staff, turf fire, various knick-knacks hanging from the ceiling, and old photos on the walls, it's easy to see why it was voted among the top 20 pubs in Ireland by TripAdvisor in 2022. It's even a favourite of Sex and the City actress Sarah Jessica Parker, who is known to holiday nearby in the summer.

Dragging ourselves away from the cosy pub, we ventured out to see the rugged beauty of Port Pier and the photo-worthy Assaranca waterfall, before dropping into the Donegal Tweed Visitors Centre in Ardara.

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This family-run business recently gained fame when SJP donned one of their Mac coats on And Just Like That but the success of this heritage brand goes back generations.

Preserving the rich heritage of Donegal Tweeds, the visitor centre offers up the rhythmic workings of a 200-year-old loom, a replica cottage of the Mulhern family home - where their story first began - and even a glass of Irish coffee.

From there, we ventured to the Ardara Distillery where we met Maebh - a 500-litre still that produces batches of An Dúlamán Irish Maritime Gin and Assaranca Vodka. These brands, alongside Silkie, a selection of soft blended whiskeys, have kept the business going while the team awaits the bottling of their whiskey.

The Ardara single malt Irish whiskey is set to mature in March of this year, and the owners have created the Seachaí Cask Club that allows investors to put their name to a barrel of heavily peated Irish whiskey.

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On our way home, we dropped into Robert Lynch, a Meath man who took over the Rusty Mackerel in 2018. As well as restoring the 1892 building, he added 13 bedrooms to the back of the property and covered the original beer garden with an electronic rolling roof.

Now, the plumber-turned-hotelier has taken over the Tara Hotel in Killybegs. He plans to refurbish the property to include 31 new bedrooms including five suites and four dog-friendly rooms.

The water-front restaurant is under construction until March 2025 and is set to deliver clear views overlooking Killybegs Harbour. If you want to pop in for a visit, he has already opened the Pier Bar, a pub filled with quirky decorations (don't miss the upside-down table on the ceiling) that is open to both residents and locals.

We finished our jam-packed day back in the Rusty with an array of seafood, as the menu is bursting with dishes made with fish caught the night before and delivered fresh to the door that morning. My fish and chips were served up with tartare sauce and mushy peas as well as a lovely glass of Sauvignon Blanc (not always guaranteed in a pub).

By the time we moved on to dessert (we couldn't resist the melt-in-your-mouth chocolate brownie with a side of vanilla ice cream) the live music had begun with a performance from The Cooleys, a two-man folk band who filled the bar with high-energy folk music.

With a sunrise hike ahead of us, we retired early to a warm and quiet room at the back of the property. The pared-back space was comfortable and included an en-suite bathroom and shower. The rooms are basic but clean and cosy, perfect for anyone raring to get out into the gorgeous surroundings.

Following a good night's sleep, we filled up on a hearty breakfast of sweet brioche buns packed with savoury sausages, eggs and rashers, we were ready to take on the morning and hike our way up Sliabh Liag.

Three times higher than the Cliffs of Moher, visitors can walk the pilgrim's path or the daring one-man's path to take in epic panoramic views.

Blessed with good weather, we managed to take in breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean, Benbulbin and Donegal Bay. At the viewing point, we managed to spot the giant's chair and table - two sea stacks at the base of the cliffs - before continuing on to take in the glassy lakes and sheep-strewn roads.

We ended our journey with a cup of vegetable soup and a pile of brown bread at the Rusty Mackerel before hitting the road back to Dublin.

Although a quick trip, the jaw-dropping views and warm welcome were a clear sign that the so-called 'Forgotten County' is worth remembering.

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The details
Journalists were invited to stay and dine at The Rusty Mackerel for purpose of review. Prices vary but at time of writing, a double room for a Friday night costs €135. Meal prices can be found on their menu. Our visit to the Arda Distillery was also covered, a tour with no tasting costs €15.

For more staycation inspiration, check out Marius Monaghan's guide to a weekend in Dingle or Roz Purcell's dream 'daycation' in Wicklow.

*Always drink responsibly